Choose the right gear motor by project type
Start with project type, voltage class, and shaft ecosystem. Within the N20 range, keep in mind that N20 is a size family, not one exact motor.
| Use case |
Best-fit product/family on this page |
Key specs to look at |
Why it fits |
Main trade-off |
| Beginner 2WD or 4WD robot car |
Dual Axis TT DC Gear Motor - 1:48, 3-6V |
3V–6V, dual axis, 1:48 ratio, 130–285rpm no-load |
TT motors are the standard beginner family because they are low-cost, easy to pair with common TT wheels, and suit 3–6V battery setups. This 1:48 version is the faster TT choice. |
Faster gearing gives up torque compared with 1:90 and 1:120 TT options. |
| Classroom robot car |
Dual Axis TT gear motor with 66mm rubber wheels |
1:48 ratio, 170 RPM max, includes 66mm diameter rubber wheel |
The included-wheel TT setup reduces parts matching and gets students to a rolling chassis faster. |
Still needs a driver and power source. |
| Slower, higher-torque TT build |
Single Axis TT DC Gear Motor - 1:120, 3-6V |
3–6V, 1:120 ratio, 45–115 RPM |
Pick this when you need more reduction and lower output speed than a 1:48 TT motor. It is the slower, stronger TT option, and you can see how a 1:120 TT motor is used in Arduino builds. |
Single-axis output is less flexible than dual-axis versions for add-ons. |
| Middle-ground TT robot |
Single Axis TT DC Gear Motor - 1:90 Metal Shaft or Dual Axis TT DC Gear Motor - 1:90 Metal Shaft |
3–6V, 1:90 ratio, 60–120 RPM depending on voltage |
The 1:90 TT range sits between 1:48 and 1:120, so it avoids the fast-versus-slow extreme and is the right call when you want a balanced robot car. |
Slower than 1:48, but not as much reduction as 1:120. |
| Compact metal-gear robot |
GA12-N20 Micro Metal Gear Motor with Wheel - 100RPM (6V) |
6V, 100RPM, metal gearbox, deep tread rubber wheel, ABS mounting bracket |
This metal gear motor for robot builds removes two common friction points at once by including both the wheel and bracket. |
N20 uses a different shaft ecosystem than TT, so TT wheels will not fit. |
| Compact 12V robot or mechanism |
GA12-N20 Micro Metal Gear Motor - 140RPM (12V) |
12V, 1:150 ratio, 140RPM, 1kgcm rated torque, 24x12x10mm body |
A compact GA12-N20 option for shoppers who already have a 12V system and want a small metal gearbox motor. |
You need your own wheel, coupler, and mount. |
| Low-speed DIY mechanism |
DC Gear Motor 300 |
3V–12V, 108:1 ratio, 45RPM |
This geared motor for automation projects suits slower general mechanisms where the wider voltage range matters more than wheel-drive convenience. |
It is not in the TT wheel ecosystem, so robot-car parts are less plug-and-play. |
| Need included wheel and mounting convenience |
6V GA12-N20 motor with wheel and ABS bracket |
Included wheel, included ABS mounting bracket, 100RPM |
Choose this when you want a compact drivetrain without separately matching bracket and wheel parts. |
6V rated, so it is not the right pick for a 12V-only build. |
If your next question is whether a low-voltage gear motor “works with Arduino,” the motor itself is fine with Arduino boards; the real compatibility decision is the driver and supply voltage.
Ratio, speed, and torque: pick 1:48, 1:90, or 1:120 without guessing
Choose gear ratio for the behavior you want. A higher ratio in a high torque geared dc motor gives more output torque and less speed from the same motor, but it is not automatically the better buy.
For wheel-drive robots, start from target ground speed and wheel diameter, not listing RPM alone. Wheel RPM comes from target speed divided by wheel circumference, and loaded speed is usually only about 75–85% of quoted no-load RPM, often close to 80%. With the wheel-included TT option, the 66mm diameter rubber wheel gives you one concrete reference point for that estimate. Torque needs the same caution: size with 1.5–2× margin over your calculated requirement, and do not treat stall torque as continuous working torque. For example, 1 kg·cm means 1 kg at a 1 cm radius, not a direct vehicle weight rating, and the 1:48 metal-shaft TT motor listing’s 800gf cm minimum torque is specified at 3V. If you want to verify real wheel speed instead of trusting no-load RPM, an infrared speed sensor can measure actual RPM. Do not choose the highest ratio by default. It trades away speed, and extreme reductions can damage themselves if you repeatedly stall the output.
Voltage, driver, and control compatibility checklist
- Match the motor to your supply first. The 1:48 dual-axis TT motor and 1:120 TT motor are 3–6V TT options, the GA12-N20 with wheel is a 6V N20 option, the 140RPM GA12-N20 is a 12V option, and the DC Gear Motor 300 supports 3V–12V.
- A microcontroller pin cannot power a motor directly. Every motor here needs a motor driver or H-bridge between the motor and your controller.
- TB6612 and DRV8833 are the usual modern choices for low-voltage brushed motors. They waste less voltage than the old L298N, which matters a lot with 3V–6V motors.
- In 6V systems, an L298N can drop about 2V before the motor sees it. That is enough to make a low-voltage TT or 6V N20 motor feel weak even when the battery is fine.
- The motor itself is controller-agnostic. Whether it works with Arduino or with ESP32 boards depends on the driver’s logic level and the motor power supply, not on the motor body.
- Overvolting makes the motor spin faster, but heat and wear rise sharply. Undervolting is generally the safer direction.
- Size the driver and power source around stall current, or current-limit accordingly. Rated or running current is not enough for startup and jam conditions.
- PWM controls speed, but very low PWM often just stalls a small brushed gear motor. If you need reliable slow motion, use more reduction or encoder feedback instead of expecting servo-like behavior.
- If this is your first brushed motor setup, review basic DC motor driver wiring with an H-bridge before choosing the driver board.
Wheel, shaft, and mounting fit: avoid day-one compatibility mistakes
| Motor style on this page |
Output / shaft style |
Included parts |
Fit or mounting advantage |
Watch out for |
| Dual-axis TT |
Dual-axis TT output |
— |
More flexibility if you may add a rear encoder disc or use the extra shaft for another mechanism |
TT motors often need a separate bracket, and TT wheels fit TT D-shafts only |
| Single-axis TT |
Single-axis TT output |
— |
Simpler one-output layout for straightforward wheel drive or mechanisms |
Less flexibility than dual-axis versions if you later want feedback hardware |
| L-shape TT |
L-Shape Single Axis TT DC Gear Motor - 1:48, 3-6V |
— |
The L-shape housing can solve chassis or enclosure geometry where a standard TT body does not sit cleanly |
Same TT wheel ecosystem, but the housing shape changes how it fits your frame |
| TT with included wheels |
Dual Axis TT DC Gear Motor with Wheels - 1:48, 3-6V |
66mm diameter rubber wheels |
Easiest TT starting point when you want wheel-ready parts in one listing |
You may still need your own motor mount depending on chassis design |
| N20 with wheel kit |
GA12-N20 Micro Metal Gear Motor with Wheel - 100RPM (6V) |
Deep tread rubber wheel, ABS mounting bracket |
Solves both wheel matching and mounting in one compact metal-gear package |
N20 uses a 3 mm D-shaft ecosystem, not TT wheels |
| Plain N20 compact motor |
GA12-N20 Micro Metal Gear Motor - 140RPM (12V) |
— |
Very compact 24x12x10mm body for tight spaces |
You need your own wheel or coupler and a mount for the 3 mm D-shaft output |
TT wheels match the TT D-shaft, while N20 motors use a 3 mm D-shaft and need their own wheels or couplers. Single-shaft and dual-shaft versions are often the same motor family. The extra rear shaft is worth choosing when price is close because it adds encoder-disc or sensing flexibility. If you want to see why that extra shaft matters, see adding rotation feedback to a dual-shaft motor setup.
When TT is enough — and when to move up to N20 or a 12V geared motor
A TT motor is the right starting point for a basic robot car: it is cheaper, physically larger, easy to pair with common wheels, and available here in the familiar 3–6V range. The 1:48 dual-axis TT motor is the default fit for many small rolling builds, and the metal-shaft 1:48 TT version gives you a TT-format middle path with metal shaft construction, EMC anti-interference, strong magnetic construction, and 800gf cm minimum torque at 3V. If you want a practical example of that route, this shows what a basic TT motor setup looks like with Arduino.
Move to N20 when compact packaging, metal gears, and better power density matter more than easy TT wheel matching. The 6V GA12-N20 with wheel and ABS bracket makes that jump easier for a small robot, while the 12V GA12-N20 at 140RPM is the compact choice when your system is already 12V and you want a 1:150 ratio with 1kgcm rated torque. Metal gears are not automatically the better buy for every project: plastic is still a rational choice for light robot cars, while metal matters more when load, wear, or compact packaging becomes the deciding factor. If your project is slower and less tied to the TT or N20 wheel ecosystems, the DC Gear Motor 300 offers a semi-metal 108:1 drivetrain, 3V–12V support, and 45RPM output for general mechanisms. For prototypes and light duty, budget motors can be completely workable. When consistency matters more than first cost, shoppers move toward higher-confidence options rather than assuming every unit will match perfectly.
FAQs on Gear Motors
Do I need a motor driver for these gear motors?
Yes — a motor driver or H-bridge is required because a microcontroller pin cannot power a gear motor directly, and TB6612 or DRV8833 are the preferred modern choices over L298N for low-voltage motors. The driver handles direction control and PWM power switching, while the motor supply provides the current the motor needs at startup and under load.
Can I run a 3–6V gear motor on 12V?
A 3–6V motor can spin much faster on 12V, but it will run hot and wear out much faster, while undervolting is generally safer; that applies to the 3–6V TT motors on this page, and it is why the 12V GA12-N20 Micro Metal Gear Motor - 140RPM exists as a separate option. If your power system is already 12V, choosing a 12V-rated motor is the safer purchase than overvolting a low-voltage TT motor.
What’s the practical difference between 1:48, 1:90, and 1:120 TT motors?
1:48 is the faster TT option, 1:120 is the slower and stronger TT option, and 1:90 sits in the middle, with stocked speed ranges of 130–285rpm, 60–120 RPM, and 45–115 RPM respectively. In practice, that means 1:48 suits quicker robot cars, 1:90 is the balanced choice, and 1:120 is the safer pick when you want more reduction and lower wheel speed.
Will two identical motors make my robot drive straight?
No — two identical open-loop DC gear motors do not match perfectly at the same PWM because unit variance, friction, and gear binding differ, and encoders or closed-loop correction are the real fix. Buying the same model for both sides helps, but it does not remove the need for feedback if straight tracking matters.
Should I choose a TT motor or an N20 motor for a small robot?
TT motors are the easier low-cost choice for basic robot cars, while N20 motors are smaller metal-gear options with better power density and more compact packaging; the 6V GA12-N20 with wheel and ABS bracket is the convenient compact choice, and the 12V 140RPM GA12-N20 is the compact 12V path. Choose TT when wheel availability and low-cost chassis builds matter most, and choose N20 when space and metal gearbox construction matter more.
Do these motors hold position when power is off?
Standard spur or planetary hobby gearmotors are generally backdrivable, and only worm gearmotors are intended to resist backdriving — with the caveat that even worm drives can creep under vibration. None of the motors on this page should be treated as self-locking for doors, lifts, or safety-critical holding.
Are wheels or brackets included with every gear motor here?
No, not every motor includes wheels or mounting parts; the Dual Axis TT DC Gear Motor with Wheels includes 66mm diameter rubber wheels, and the GA12-N20 Micro Metal Gear Motor with Wheel includes a deep tread rubber wheel and ABS mounting bracket. Bare TT and plain N20 listings are the ones to check most carefully before ordering.
Glossary
- Gear ratio
- — The reduction between the motor and output shaft, where a higher ratio usually means lower output RPM and higher output torque from the same motor.
- RPM
- — Output-shaft speed in revolutions per minute, usually quoted with no load, so real loaded speed is lower.
- Torque (kg·cm / gf cm)
- — Twisting force at the output shaft; it only becomes useful when you relate it to the wheel or pulley radius you plan to use.
- Stall current
- — The maximum current the motor can draw at startup or when jammed, and the number your driver and power supply must survive.
- Dual shaft
- — A motor with an extra rear shaft that can be used for encoder discs or other add-ons even when the front shaft drives the load.
- D-shaft
- — A shaft with one flat side, which is why wheel and coupler compatibility depends on matching the shaft family.
- Encoder
- — A rotation sensor used when you need actual speed, distance, or straight-line correction instead of open-loop PWM only.
- H-bridge / motor driver
- — The power stage between the controller and motor that provides direction control and the current a brushed DC motor needs.
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